We waited in the lobby of the doctor’s office, then saw a nurse, then made it back to the exam room. This was our pediatric exam for the U.S. Embassy. The doctor was so attentive. He was the chief of pediatrics and neonatology at the large hospital in Bogota. A friend we made here told us it is the best hospital in Colombia. We felt honored he would see us, but apparently he often sees children of international adoption.
His examination was very thorough and his bedside manner with parents was incredibly sensitive. We agreed he was the Ben Warner of Colombia; “Él es perfecto!” He was so thoughtful about our worries having just met Marco and he was eager to help us travel without the oxygen tank. He even hooked us up with a nurse from the hospital who 
specialized in respiratory issues in the neonatal unit. She would later make a house call and monitor Marco for two hours.
After that wonderful visit, we turned to vaccinations. Marco got two shots. I must say the speed and gentility were lacking here, but Arbor Pediatrics sets a high standard. It was about 3:30pm and we were ready to head home.
Like anywhere, this place is complicated. I am so thankful for my time with Andrew, the American pastor in Bogotá. He spoke with a lot of nuance. I am always suspicious when people are able to make generalize about a place or people. I learned this the hard way in the Dominican Republic. My friend Elliott, a missionary in the D.R. debunked a frequent American generalization, “they are the happiest people!” Perhaps Dominicans have a propensity for joy, but in the villages we used to visit, there was a lot of pain too. Elliott pointed out that if a bunch of Dominicans showed up in my town, I probably would put on a happy face and enjoy this break from reality afforded by my guests.
I have tried my best to ask many questions when we hang out with Colombians. I have learned about the professional soccer clubs. I was leaning towards making us a Santa Fe family, then I asked Jairo who his club was. With more joviality than he had let on to that point he responded, “Santa Fe!” This sealed it.
Many Colombians despise the show Narcos. Not because of the narrative, but apparently the accents are terrible. A Brazilian plays Pablo Escobar. People compare this to an American Southerner playing someone from London. On the flip side, some sober souls have told me the cultural portrayals are accurate and there are things to learn from the show about Colombian politics and history. One person told me that if you ask someone my age or older about Pablo Escobar, they most likely saw a bombing or had a relative killed by him. His terror was that prolific. In my limited encounters, people have in fact often had an anecdote or two. If there is one thing I realize Narcos misses, it is how much we should utterly hate this man.
Politics, like anywhere, is complicated. There are billboards all over promoting a “Sí” vote for the peace referendum. But after many taxi rides to different parts of Bogotá, I have started noticing “No” propaganda. I asked an acquaintance why there would be “No” votes for a peace agreement. She said, “that is me!” Her explanation was that the cease fire agreement provides too much amnesty for the guerrillas and she thinks it will not prevent future civil conflict.
In the original downtown of Bogotá, La Candelaria, we took the kids on a graffiti tour that was fascinating. Side note, I love my wife. The tour guide was a bit shocked by our arrival and I think quite sure we would leave early, but the gang could hang. At one point I snapped a picture of Erin letting Silas play on a defunct playground surrounded by graffiti in a back neighborhood of Bogotá. We learned about biodiversity, deforestation, the clashes over Marxism and Capitalism, and graffiti styles of course.
Like anywhere, this is a layered place. Trust no one who returns from Colombia with a clean narrative. We have barely scratched the surface and I can already see that the rise of economic development here has been wonderful and destructive. The military conflicts are not simply a civil war, but a mess of multiple guerrilla groups, the Colombian government, and narco-traffickers. Bogotá itself is one of the most beautiful, cosmopolitan cities I have ever visited. It also contains some terrible poverty. One thing is for sure, this place will not be easily conveyed to Marco via books and movies. It will require on the ground training and the Pfeiffer clan will be happy to provide such an education!
austin pfeiffer 
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